Saturday, May 15, 2004
magoo -
I don't know if climbing in CO would really be of much help when you get to higher attitudes - but maybe it helps get you base camp anyway.
I don't know if climbing in CO would really be of much help when you get to higher attitudes - but maybe it helps get you base camp anyway.
Boulder Bob: Thanks for passing that on. Very interesting about the folks from Colorado and their efforts. I'd be one of the Texans resting and doing laundry on the off days. To each his own. I think you need to listen to yourself and decide what is best for you. Even more so if you haven't had the benefit of training on CO's 14ers.
I'm just jealous because we have to travel 800 miles to the nearest mountains. But!! Of all the places I've been lately, I'm none happier than returning home to this flat, dry, hot, one horse town.
I'm just jealous because we have to travel 800 miles to the nearest mountains. But!! Of all the places I've been lately, I'm none happier than returning home to this flat, dry, hot, one horse town.
And this Dispatch from Everest Base Camp:
Dispatch #35 - May 14, 2004
This is Sarah Henley reporting from Base Camp. The Mountain Madness Team is still resting at Camp 2 getting ready to climb to Camp 3 early in the morning. Everyone had a relaxing day and are ready to move up on the mountain tomorrow.
Today about 40 people climbed to Camp 4, at the South Col., and will begin their summit attempt tonight between 9:00 and midnight. If all goes well they will all summit in the morning of the 15th. This is good news for us because this means less people on the route while our team is climbing. In some of the years past many of the teams try to summit at the same time and it can be a huge traffic jam. The Mountain Madness team will be trying for the summit, on the morning of the 17th, at the same time as five other groups. We will be with the Spanish team which has three climbers, the Irish which has 2 climbers, the Swiss that consists of two climbers, the International team which has eleven climbers, and the David Brashers team which has quite a bit of folks because they have a whole film crew with them. These numbers are not counting all the the climbing sherpas. There could be about 40 - 50 people counting Mountain Madness, the rest of the teams, and sherpas on the mountain that same day. This seems like a lot but actually it is quite reasonable.
Dispatch #35 - May 14, 2004
This is Sarah Henley reporting from Base Camp. The Mountain Madness Team is still resting at Camp 2 getting ready to climb to Camp 3 early in the morning. Everyone had a relaxing day and are ready to move up on the mountain tomorrow.
Today about 40 people climbed to Camp 4, at the South Col., and will begin their summit attempt tonight between 9:00 and midnight. If all goes well they will all summit in the morning of the 15th. This is good news for us because this means less people on the route while our team is climbing. In some of the years past many of the teams try to summit at the same time and it can be a huge traffic jam. The Mountain Madness team will be trying for the summit, on the morning of the 17th, at the same time as five other groups. We will be with the Spanish team which has three climbers, the Irish which has 2 climbers, the Swiss that consists of two climbers, the International team which has eleven climbers, and the David Brashers team which has quite a bit of folks because they have a whole film crew with them. These numbers are not counting all the the climbing sherpas. There could be about 40 - 50 people counting Mountain Madness, the rest of the teams, and sherpas on the mountain that same day. This seems like a lot but actually it is quite reasonable.
Friday, May 14, 2004
Regarding my friends who trekked to the Everest Base Camp with Mountain Madness:
I thought some of you might be interested in this:
I sent the following query to my friends who recently returned from the Everest Base camp (South Side) after trekking there with the Mountain Madness group (keep in mind that last year they had summited Kili by a route other than the standard trekking route - and they were the only 2 from their group to summit) - they had sent some picture to me and I responded with:
"Hey thanks - those are great. I like the stories about flying into the Lukula airport - and I saw the neat picture. What I want to know is this: how would you compare the shape you were in to the other trekkers? Were you in better shape in general? Or average? And was there anything on the climb that you didn’t think you were experienced enough for? And, finally, when you saw the Kumbu Ice Fall did you wish you could have climbed though it on the ladders or were you glad you weren’t going any further?
Bob "
I received the following response (keep in mind that they only went to Base Camp - no higher:
"Hi Bob!
This is Didier replying on Wendy's email. Your email made it sound like you have an agenda (Everest or Base Camp?)...... We climbed 14ers all winter long and therefore did a lot better than the other hikers from 11,000 feet on. They were from LA, Arkansas, Texas and Winnipeg (Winter-peg) and didn't have the benefit of training at altitude like we did. The couple fro LA got vey affectd by the altitude and didn't show up for a couple of meals at 17,000 (Gorak Shep) When they showed up the next morning, I personally would have sent them back down. They looked terrible.
Wendy and I were the strongest hikers by far. The expedition leader (Willie Benegas, aka the King of Aconcagua - he's climbed it in record time and over 40 times - he's also a North Face athlete) paid us the ultimate compliment: he asked us if we were interested in climbing Aconcagua with him. He also mentioned to me that I looked just as strong as the clients attempting to actually climb Everest. He might have been nice but it boosted my confidence.
Wendy and I would show up in camp way ahead of any other climbers every day. I guess we're used to the altitude and to stressing our bodies going up those Colorado 14ers. Psychologically, we knew we could go as high as 18,500 (Kala Pattar) after having climbed to 19,340 on Kilimanjaro last year. As a result, however, we didn't take care of hydrating ourselves like we did on Kili. Instead of the 5 liters of water we drank each day in Africa, we "only" drank about 3 to 4 liters a day and still did just fine. I pushed myself going up Kala Pattar (starting at 17,000 and going up to 18,500) and did fine. I got a slight headache a Base Camp and took care of it with an Ibuprophen.
To sum it up, we got to Nepal in good shape and, as much as I hate to say it (Coloradoans can be arrogant that way), coming from (and training in) Colorado helped.
You asked about the Khumbu ice fall: AMAZING! Scary yet awfully attractive at the same time. Willie Benegas was ready to take me in with a spare pair of mountaineering boots and crampons. However, the trekking guide wasn't too keen on it, and rightfully so. His butt would have been on the line if anything had happened to me. I was already all dressed up and ready to go! Bummer! If or when I go back to EBC, I will get a permit to go up to Camp I. No doubt about it!!!
From an experience standpoint, it is a trek. Having some winter camping/mountaineering experience helped as far as how to dress, how to pace yourself, etc... We got snowed on every afternoon and had brought gear just for those types of circumstances. Others were not prepared for this type of weather. Wendy and I were the only ones to go up on acclimatization hikes durng our rest days. The other trekkers stayed in their tents or did some laundry but no physical activity. I'm a strong believer (now more than ever) that acclimatization does not occur unless one exerts some kind of physical activity on rest days. The old adage of going high and sleeping low rings truer than ever!
Hope this helps. Feel free to call me directly if yu have any moe questions at (303)978-1562. We're still looking at a good time for a slide show and give you more details as you look at our pictures. How does Saturday May 22nd look for you guys?
Cheers!
Didier "
I thought some of you might be interested in this:
I sent the following query to my friends who recently returned from the Everest Base camp (South Side) after trekking there with the Mountain Madness group (keep in mind that last year they had summited Kili by a route other than the standard trekking route - and they were the only 2 from their group to summit) - they had sent some picture to me and I responded with:
"Hey thanks - those are great. I like the stories about flying into the Lukula airport - and I saw the neat picture. What I want to know is this: how would you compare the shape you were in to the other trekkers? Were you in better shape in general? Or average? And was there anything on the climb that you didn’t think you were experienced enough for? And, finally, when you saw the Kumbu Ice Fall did you wish you could have climbed though it on the ladders or were you glad you weren’t going any further?
Bob "
I received the following response (keep in mind that they only went to Base Camp - no higher:
"Hi Bob!
This is Didier replying on Wendy's email. Your email made it sound like you have an agenda (Everest or Base Camp?)...... We climbed 14ers all winter long and therefore did a lot better than the other hikers from 11,000 feet on. They were from LA, Arkansas, Texas and Winnipeg (Winter-peg) and didn't have the benefit of training at altitude like we did. The couple fro LA got vey affectd by the altitude and didn't show up for a couple of meals at 17,000 (Gorak Shep) When they showed up the next morning, I personally would have sent them back down. They looked terrible.
Wendy and I were the strongest hikers by far. The expedition leader (Willie Benegas, aka the King of Aconcagua - he's climbed it in record time and over 40 times - he's also a North Face athlete) paid us the ultimate compliment: he asked us if we were interested in climbing Aconcagua with him. He also mentioned to me that I looked just as strong as the clients attempting to actually climb Everest. He might have been nice but it boosted my confidence.
Wendy and I would show up in camp way ahead of any other climbers every day. I guess we're used to the altitude and to stressing our bodies going up those Colorado 14ers. Psychologically, we knew we could go as high as 18,500 (Kala Pattar) after having climbed to 19,340 on Kilimanjaro last year. As a result, however, we didn't take care of hydrating ourselves like we did on Kili. Instead of the 5 liters of water we drank each day in Africa, we "only" drank about 3 to 4 liters a day and still did just fine. I pushed myself going up Kala Pattar (starting at 17,000 and going up to 18,500) and did fine. I got a slight headache a Base Camp and took care of it with an Ibuprophen.
To sum it up, we got to Nepal in good shape and, as much as I hate to say it (Coloradoans can be arrogant that way), coming from (and training in) Colorado helped.
You asked about the Khumbu ice fall: AMAZING! Scary yet awfully attractive at the same time. Willie Benegas was ready to take me in with a spare pair of mountaineering boots and crampons. However, the trekking guide wasn't too keen on it, and rightfully so. His butt would have been on the line if anything had happened to me. I was already all dressed up and ready to go! Bummer! If or when I go back to EBC, I will get a permit to go up to Camp I. No doubt about it!!!
From an experience standpoint, it is a trek. Having some winter camping/mountaineering experience helped as far as how to dress, how to pace yourself, etc... We got snowed on every afternoon and had brought gear just for those types of circumstances. Others were not prepared for this type of weather. Wendy and I were the only ones to go up on acclimatization hikes durng our rest days. The other trekkers stayed in their tents or did some laundry but no physical activity. I'm a strong believer (now more than ever) that acclimatization does not occur unless one exerts some kind of physical activity on rest days. The old adage of going high and sleeping low rings truer than ever!
Hope this helps. Feel free to call me directly if yu have any moe questions at (303)978-1562. We're still looking at a good time for a slide show and give you more details as you look at our pictures. How does Saturday May 22nd look for you guys?
Cheers!
Didier "
Regarding Annabelle:
Personally I respect her for what she is trying to do - it's more than I've done - plus the cause that she is climbing for is a respectable one.
Personally I respect her for what she is trying to do - it's more than I've done - plus the cause that she is climbing for is a respectable one.
From Dave Lim re: his new book:
can be found near the bottom of the home page of
http://www.topworldbooks.com
there is no automated online ordering facility . You need to email Greg Glade who has about 10 copies of the book
Cheers
Dave
all are signed copies!
can be found near the bottom of the home page of
http://www.topworldbooks.com
there is no automated online ordering facility . You need to email Greg Glade who has about 10 copies of the book
Cheers
Dave
all are signed copies!
Well it appears that our favourite little social climber is two hours away from the summit thing. Stay tuned.
I send an E-mail to Dave asking about it.
magoo
Maybe they haven't received Dave's Books yet.
Maybe they haven't received Dave's Books yet.
Hi Carrie,
Even with Boulder Bob's comments from Dave, I still can't find where to buy the book. If someone knows a URL, that would be great.
Even with Boulder Bob's comments from Dave, I still can't find where to buy the book. If someone knows a URL, that would be great.
I asked Dave where we could buy his book and here's his response:
I sent a shipment to Greg Glade at Top of the World Books - see his webiste of the same name.
I sent a shipment to Greg Glade at Top of the World Books - see his webiste of the same name.
Thank you for the review of Dave's book, BBob. I look forward to reading it someday (I, too, would tend to move it up ahead of others gathering dust on my "books to read" shelf).
magoo - Any line yet on how we can purchase a copy?
magoo - Any line yet on how we can purchase a copy?
Thank you BB.
Maybe we should publish our Chat site log and donate the money to a foundation in Nepal.
Maybe we should publish our Chat site log and donate the money to a foundation in Nepal.
Thursday, May 13, 2004
I wanted to say one other thing about the book. Dave discusses his "climbing style" in the book a few times and I must say that I have a feeling that he would have succeeded on some or all of those summit attempts if he had climbed them the way I would have climbed (i.e. supported).
Oops - I mean that I'm sure he would have summitted the ones that he wasn't successful on (He did summit some of them).
Oops - I mean that I'm sure he would have summitted the ones that he wasn't successful on (He did summit some of them).
Book Review: Against Giants - The Life and Climbs of a Disabled Mountaineer - By David Lim
I have finished reading Dave’s new book; “Against Giants - The Life and Climbs of a Disabled Mountaineer”. Dave sent me a copy as a thank you for collecting and re-shipping a number of items (mostly satellite phone equipment) to him for his 2nd Expedition to Everest. I have a number of Mountaineering books on the shelf waiting to be read but I decided to read a little bit of Dave’s book first and I ended up finishing it 2 weeks later.
I was reminded of a few things as I was reading. First, I rediscovered how interesting it is to read a book written by someone I know (both from the SJ Chat Line and once in person). Secondly, as I read I was constantly reminded of things Dave had told us all on the Chat Line over the last 5 to 6 years. Many of those things I had forgotten along the way.
To me the book was a concatenation of 5 stories followed by an Epilogue. The first story was related to Dave’s recovery from GBS and his retraining for the climbing world. The second story was his Aconcogua trip which I remember him telling us about on the Chat Line. But the story in his book is so much more compelling than hearing a few things on the internet. The third story was about climbing Mount Cook in New Zealand. The forth story was about going back to Everest but this time climbing on the North side. And the last story was about his attempt to climb Shishapangma & Cho Oyu on one long Expedition. All the stories were great to read and it didn’t matter to me that Dave didn’t reach summits on all those climbs - well, I mean, it didn’t take away from making an interesting story at all. I think Dave has some really neat insights - which he shares. I have always suspected that the hardest thing about climbing is not the climbing itself but rather the kind of personality it takes to be away on expeditions for such long times. Dave seems to be cut out for it. Frankly, I don’t know if I am.
The book didn’t let me down at all. I have never climbed at high altitude but having climbed in Colorado quite a bit I could empathize with many things that Dave relates in his stories; climbing on the edge of endurance, self deception, and the utter joy of some simple thing that you love - like a hot cup of grape flavored Tang.
I recommend the book to everyone on the Chat Line.
Boulder Bob
I have finished reading Dave’s new book; “Against Giants - The Life and Climbs of a Disabled Mountaineer”. Dave sent me a copy as a thank you for collecting and re-shipping a number of items (mostly satellite phone equipment) to him for his 2nd Expedition to Everest. I have a number of Mountaineering books on the shelf waiting to be read but I decided to read a little bit of Dave’s book first and I ended up finishing it 2 weeks later.
I was reminded of a few things as I was reading. First, I rediscovered how interesting it is to read a book written by someone I know (both from the SJ Chat Line and once in person). Secondly, as I read I was constantly reminded of things Dave had told us all on the Chat Line over the last 5 to 6 years. Many of those things I had forgotten along the way.
To me the book was a concatenation of 5 stories followed by an Epilogue. The first story was related to Dave’s recovery from GBS and his retraining for the climbing world. The second story was his Aconcogua trip which I remember him telling us about on the Chat Line. But the story in his book is so much more compelling than hearing a few things on the internet. The third story was about climbing Mount Cook in New Zealand. The forth story was about going back to Everest but this time climbing on the North side. And the last story was about his attempt to climb Shishapangma & Cho Oyu on one long Expedition. All the stories were great to read and it didn’t matter to me that Dave didn’t reach summits on all those climbs - well, I mean, it didn’t take away from making an interesting story at all. I think Dave has some really neat insights - which he shares. I have always suspected that the hardest thing about climbing is not the climbing itself but rather the kind of personality it takes to be away on expeditions for such long times. Dave seems to be cut out for it. Frankly, I don’t know if I am.
The book didn’t let me down at all. I have never climbed at high altitude but having climbed in Colorado quite a bit I could empathize with many things that Dave relates in his stories; climbing on the edge of endurance, self deception, and the utter joy of some simple thing that you love - like a hot cup of grape flavored Tang.
I recommend the book to everyone on the Chat Line.
Boulder Bob
Wednesday, May 12, 2004
I have managed to obtain some excerpts from Annabelle Bond's forthcoming autobiography............."On my mountain adventures, I was shaken,not stirred onto greater things"
Another excerpt fron Annabelle's May 9 Journal entry "Amy told me yesterday that there is a lot of rock falling onto the route on the Lhotse face so I'm bringing my helmet".....(Well, thank God for Amy's tip).....She continues "got to protect my valuable brain cells, can't afford to loose anymore."...(Nah, too easy)
I'm looking forward to the release of the Annabelle Bond Doll (Action Figure for us guys). Just think of all the fun we'll have making sure her Patagonia fleece matches her Arc'teryx pack. We can give our doll a different pair of sunglasses for each day of the week just like Annabelle.Then we can pose our Doll for pictures just like on Annabelle's site. Oh, such fun !! But the best thing is our doll won't have to do the whole summit thing!
No, I just didn't have the heart to highlight that passage :)
As I read the entries all I kept thinking - all is forgiven TCCD...
As I read the entries all I kept thinking - all is forgiven TCCD...
Bruce: should have included this line from annabellebond.com
"IM RESTLESS TONIGHT I HATE HAVING THE WHOLE SUMMIT THING LOOMING OVER ME..."
You sometimes think it's a sketch right out of SNL.
Lori: have a great trip!
"IM RESTLESS TONIGHT I HATE HAVING THE WHOLE SUMMIT THING LOOMING OVER ME..."
You sometimes think it's a sketch right out of SNL.
Lori: have a great trip!
Tuesday, May 11, 2004
I just read this at Enews - - and while much of this post is comical, this passage made me a bit nervous.
From Annabelle Bond
"I THEN WENT AND SAW LOU ANNE TO SETTLE MY DEBTS - SHE HAS GIVEN ME THE MOST AMAZING THING FOR MY COUGH.. WHENEVER I EXERT MYSELF IN THE COLD AIR I COUGH UNCONTROLLABLY AND SHE HAS GIVEN ME A PURPLE DIAL ( I'M SORRY I DON'T HAVE THE NAME ON HAND) BUT BASICALLY ITS A POWDERED STEROID THAT U INHALE AND IT WORKS WONDERS! I BROUGHT A PURPLE DIAL FOR ANDRONICO AND ONE FOR THE REST OF THE GROUP IN CASE OF AN EMERGENCY ON OUR SUMMIT ATTEMPT."
Ken if you are out there, is this the asthma medication I'm thinking of?
How wise is this?
She also complains of anxiety attacks, normal given the situation, but any chance this "drug" may be amplifying them?
From Annabelle Bond
"I THEN WENT AND SAW LOU ANNE TO SETTLE MY DEBTS - SHE HAS GIVEN ME THE MOST AMAZING THING FOR MY COUGH.. WHENEVER I EXERT MYSELF IN THE COLD AIR I COUGH UNCONTROLLABLY AND SHE HAS GIVEN ME A PURPLE DIAL ( I'M SORRY I DON'T HAVE THE NAME ON HAND) BUT BASICALLY ITS A POWDERED STEROID THAT U INHALE AND IT WORKS WONDERS! I BROUGHT A PURPLE DIAL FOR ANDRONICO AND ONE FOR THE REST OF THE GROUP IN CASE OF AN EMERGENCY ON OUR SUMMIT ATTEMPT."
Ken if you are out there, is this the asthma medication I'm thinking of?
How wise is this?
She also complains of anxiety attacks, normal given the situation, but any chance this "drug" may be amplifying them?
***needs further investigation, tried this and got Bruce-like results *** Blogger now gives us the comment option. Using Blogger's comments will decrease the download time for dial ups because the blog won't have to access haloscan.com (keeper of the old comments). The down side is that using blogger comments, we lose the old comments.
Has anyone seen the new Prince show?
Sounds good on NPR.
Sounds good on NPR.
Take a moment to read The Great Blogger Relaunch, for recent changes to Blogger.com
You're right Bruce, it's not you!
You're right Bruce, it's not you!
Monday, May 10, 2004
I didn't touch anything!!
May 10th (or is the 11th already?), Wondering how EV and David Breashears feel about being on Everest at this time?
Thanks Rose
Grover - Are you saying that the Neddle is actually still there? Or, are you playing with me?
Grover - Are you saying that the Neddle is actually still there? Or, are you playing with me?
Gee - everthing has changed!
This from Tim:
have lost one day so far due to weather--we agreed to another destination
(the Kahiltna Glacier, Base camp for Denali climbs) but got half way and the
pilot turned around due to detiorating conditions. So waiting here in
Talkeetna. Good group, surprised by the proficiency of the other clients,
couple of hard core climbers and the others are experienced--guides seem
fine. Hoping to get out tomorrow am to the Ruth Glacier, our original
destination--will have a lot fewer climbers around.
Definitely a different way of packing things when you fly in and will go out
on skis.
This from Tim:
have lost one day so far due to weather--we agreed to another destination
(the Kahiltna Glacier, Base camp for Denali climbs) but got half way and the
pilot turned around due to detiorating conditions. So waiting here in
Talkeetna. Good group, surprised by the proficiency of the other clients,
couple of hard core climbers and the others are experienced--guides seem
fine. Hoping to get out tomorrow am to the Ruth Glacier, our original
destination--will have a lot fewer climbers around.
Definitely a different way of packing things when you fly in and will go out
on skis.
Check out the AMNH Digital Universe in the Rose Center - a must see in NYC.
Sunday, May 09, 2004
BBob, funny, I just saw the Space Needle myself. Perhaps we just see things as they once were or we wish they were? Or perhaps we're just hallucinating? I mean, if it was on t.v., it must be true?
Patrick & I will be in Alaska starting Friday morning and all through next week, in the Anchorage-ish area (not sure where we're going--just going to wander around, see where we end up)..Tim's left already,eh? Too bad, would have been nice to meet up.
I'll be in Manhattan til Wednesday night in the meantime.
Over & out for a while.
Patrick & I will be in Alaska starting Friday morning and all through next week, in the Anchorage-ish area (not sure where we're going--just going to wander around, see where we end up)..Tim's left already,eh? Too bad, would have been nice to meet up.
I'll be in Manhattan til Wednesday night in the meantime.
Over & out for a while.
